I’ve already asserted in a previous blog that there is a link between food, diet, and health. At Mesa Winds Farm we raise organic food because it’s the only food we would want to eat — and we wouldn’t sell food to our customers that we wouldn’t eat ourselves. Max and I are presently visiting family in St Louis and, having driven across Colorado, Kansas, and Missouri to get here we have had ample opportunities to reflect on the US attitude toward food. A sampling:
1. We hear that the “Farm” Bill is dead until at least next year. Michael Pollan urges us to think of it as a “Food Bill” since it has such an impact on the food choices we are likely to see for at least the next five years. (http://www.nytimes.com/2007/11/04/opinion/04pollan.html?_r=1&oref=slogin) The Bill’s difficulties are an indication that Congress may actually be paying attention to this legislation for a change thanks to agitation by Pollan, the Organic Consumers Association (http://www.organicconsumers.org/), our own VOGA (www.vogaco.org), and others. They, and we, urge that the final legislation allocate an appropriate proportion of support for choices that will be healthy for the American people, for rural communities, and for the earth herself. Please get informed and help keep the pressure on Congress.
2. We are reminded of the comment by our organic potato farmer friend that commercial potato farmers don’t feed their families on potatoes from their fields; they have a kitchen garden for their own consumption. He makes this point to underscore the conclusion that farmers know the potatoes they send to the market aren’t fit to eat. I remember an event, when we lived near Bozeman, MT, when an entire neighborhood was evacuated because a drum of chemical fell off a semi on the highway — a known carcinogen with which commercial potatoes are fumigated to retard sprouting.
3. I’ve been looking for an analogy to putting something as vital as our food system in the hands of commercial interests: health care? legal defense? transportation safety? school systems? Hmmm. Maybe we now think our interests are adequately protected in all these arenas despite, or even because of, low initial cost. But ask practitioners in those fields and they’ll tell you that low cost is a poor way to choose quality. Maybe that’s why we are living through erosion in all those services: we’ve been willing to accept the free-marketeers’ doctrine that low cost is the most important element in choice.
Maybe the analogy works the other way around: cheap food policy is instructive of what’s wrong with reliance on the so-called market system to provide both low cost and quality in essential commodities and services. First, I challenge the notion that there is such a thing as a true market system. As in any unfettered “market” those with the greatest market power use their position to undermine the power of lesser players — thereby violating the essential proposition. A corrupted market is just that: corrupted. If you notice, those who try to hardest to convince us of the sanctity of any market are those who have a market advantage to protect.
Consider the food system: Markets rely on price competition among vendors and buyers. Farmers have few buyers from which to choose (a point ably explicated by Michael Pollan in “The Omnivore’s Dilemma”); prices commanded by farmers stay low — hardly enough to cover the cost of production; and a state of affairs perpetuated by the Farm Bill. In the mythical pure system, this would cause producers to reduce supply, thereby driving prices up. Instead, farmers typically increase production in an effort to squeeze enough profit to stay in business out of their acres and equipment. Conventional farmers are encouraged to apply more artificial fertilizers and questionable pesticides and herbicides hoping that yields will off-set the cost of additional inputs. Maybe they hope their neighbor will go bankrupt first and thereby incrementally reduce overall supply. In any event this state of affairs is just fine with the pesticide dealers, the bankers, fuel suppliers, agribusiness buyers (ADM, Cargill, etc). And consumers — as long as they don’t consider whether the cheap food is healthy, nutritious, and delicious. It is not about good food.
The fact that we are organic, family farmers doesn’t relieve us of these pressures. The system that has prevailed for decades on our farm, and those of our neighbors, is the same: one buyer, lowest prices, pressure to over-produce, apple prices held low by competition from China. Our response, though, is different. We seek to connect directly with the people who eat the food we grow: who value the exceptional quality of organic, tree-ripened fruit, who value knowing the farms and farmers from whom their food comes; who value the survival of healthy rural agricultural communities, and who understand that if they want such values to continue (and grow) that their farmers need and deserve to receive a reasonable income. Together we are part of a revolution in agriculture.
4. We are grateful for all those who have joined hands with us in this mission: our Organic Food Club customers, our friends who take advantage of our Farm Stay opportunities to vacation and work on Mesa Winds Farm, and our workers whose labor, generously given despite low wages, helps bring our fruit to market. Thank you all. And, if you would like to know more about these opportunities, visit the web site… and welcome!